1.6l modifications

Tommygtt

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Only need the ecu tuning to get 190cv and 300nm torque.
If you need more, then use a catted downpipe with hybrid turbo and full exhaust.
 

mvpluidex

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Only need the ecu tuning to get 190cv and 300nm torque.
If you need more, then use a catted downpipe with hybrid turbo and full exhaust.
Thanks for the tips. Will I be able to get this power running the same 95RON, or does one have to run higher octane? I would want to run this power with minimal risk of detonation.
 

Tommygtt

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190cv with 95RON.
98RON is not recommended due to fueling system components
 

Guvna

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Doubt you'll reach those power levels on 95 without knock.
Never heard of 98 being NOT recommended?
 

nicodache

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if anything, in Europe, 98 would be more recommended than 95, as 95 is now called E10 (up to 10% ethanol), and 98 is E5.

because ethanol likes bonding with water, you have more chance to have water in your 95 than your98 ;-)

this being said, my fuel door says 95 minimal (not recommended; minimal). Maybe where this is coming from ?
 

mvpluidex

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Doubt you'll reach those power levels on 95 without knock.
Never heard of 98 being NOT recommended?
So then, downpipe and intake should allow me to safely make this power? Should I consider an IC upgrade as well? Considering the same IC is used on the 2.0l I'd assume it's oversized for the application.
 

Guvna

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So then, downpipe and intake should allow me to safely make this power? Should I consider an IC upgrade as well? Considering the same IC is used on the 2.0l I'd assume it's oversized for the application.
Add no parts, keep it stock and tune it to 98, you’ll probably get the power figures you’re after, and safely.
 

Guvna

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if anything, in Europe, 98 would be more recommended than 95, as 95 is now called E10 (up to 10% ethanol), and 98 is E5.

because ethanol likes bonding with water, you have more chance to have water in your 95 than your98 ;-)

this being said, my fuel door says 95 minimal (not recommended; minimal). Maybe where this is coming from ?
Misreading of the fuel label you say? That could be it sir. In Australia we have 91, 95 and 98, all ethanoll free. We then have E10 and E85. Subaru have told me ethanol is NOT to be used in our cars, unless of course you get a flex-fuel kit installed and appropriate tune. The denser the fuel the less chance of knock, less ethanol means more dense.
 

mvpluidex

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Add no parts, keep it stock and tune it to 98, you’ll probably get the power figures you’re after, and safely.
Only challenge: I only have up to 95RON (depending on where you get it) readily available locally. Don't want to go down the race fuel additives route, having to drive around with jerrycans of the stuff on longer trips like some people I know.

Should I prioritize CAI or JPipe/downpipe?
 

nicodache

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The denser the fuel the less chance of knock, less ethanol means more dense.
Interesting fact; E85 (properly tuned) can achieve higher power than 98 safely. Apparently has to do with the fuel being less energy-efficient, so you cram more in there, so it has a more important cooling effect as it enters the cylinders, so the engine runs cooler, so you can turn the boost up (or add more timing) without heat-caused detonation to occur :)

At least, this is what I learned watching the tire burn marks manufacturer youtube chan :D
 

nicodache

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Should I prioritize CAI or JPipe/downpipe?
Prioritize a tune ;-)

The 1.6 is under-tuned because it's got to run on cheap 95 and good 98, in all temperature, humidity and altitude condition, everywhere that car is sold, without killing itself (all manufacturers do the same, for warranty claim reasons).
If you're never seeing crazy high temperature in your country, or crazy low temperature, or you're never changing elevation massively, just a tune will be the most effective way to boost power/decrease consumption safely.
 

Guvna

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Only challenge: I only have up to 95RON (depending on where you get it) readily available locally. Don't want to go down the race fuel additives route, having to drive around with jerrycans of the stuff on longer trips like some people I know.

Should I prioritize CAI or JPipe/downpipe?
Fuel quality (RON) is going to be your biggest problem then. Tuning to 95 will not nett you the gains you seek safely. Doesn't matter what mods you do if you're not improving the fuel. Knock will be a problem. CAI won't gain you much at all on a stock engine even with a tune, they're only needed with much bigger power than the CVT can handle, the factory intake is fine for the power you could hope to gain. Downpipe can make a big difference, but again, more performance means more need for dense fuel, so I doubt a downpipe will help you either. If you can't readily get 98, seems stock is the way to leave it :(
 

Guvna

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Interesting fact; E85 (properly tuned) can achieve higher power than 98 safely. Apparently has to do with the fuel being less energy-efficient, so you cram more in there, so it has a more important cooling effect as it enters the cylinders, so the engine runs cooler, so you can turn the boost up (or add more timing) without heat-caused detonation to occur :)

At least, this is what I learned watching the tire burn marks manufacturer youtube chan :D
Absolutely, that's why they call it race fuel ;) E85 has an octane rating of approx 107, but a lower energy content, so fuel economy is HEAPS worse, but power is HEAPS better. Flex-Fuel kit allows for any ethanol content between 98RON and E85 without retuning. So 98 daily and straight E85 for the racing days ;) and anything else in between.
 

Tommygtt

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if anything, in Europe, 98 would be more recommended than 95, as 95 is now called E10 (up to 10% ethanol), and 98 is E5.
This is the reason, the 98RON has more ethanol than 95.
the mechanics (pipes and fuel pump) must be adapted so that they do not degrade as ethanol is more corrosive than gasoline.
If the mechanics don't be adapted, fueling system could be damaged before than using 95.
 

Virgonaut

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if anything, in Europe, 98 would be more recommended than 95, as 95 is now called E10 (up to 10% ethanol), and 98 is E5.

because ethanol likes bonding with water, you have more chance to have water in your 95 than your98 ;-)

this being said, my fuel door says 95 minimal (not recommended; minimal). Maybe where this is coming from ?
I'll dig out the old thread but I think there need to be clarification on fuel subject...

AFAIK we have both E5 and E10 and it's not strictly related to Octane number. The most common is E5 for both 95 and 98.

As proof, here is the photo of fuel pumps in Poland:
11127541-111-900-554.jpg
 

nicodache

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E<something> is related to how much ethanol they put in the fuel. rest being the usual mix of dead dinosaurs.

As for your picture, I can show you pics of fuel pumps around my place in Belgium ; 95 is now called E10, 98 is called E5. you have more dinosaurs in E5, besides a higher octane/cetane ratio

Kurwa EU ? >_<'
 

Nate-Ruru

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Hey guys, I needed some advise on some mods for my passed down, 1.6L.
I was thinking of the following mods/upgrades.
  1. Tint
  2. Tires
  3. Adjustable Air Suspension
  4. Exhasut system
  5. Intake and Intercooler
  6. Parking assist
  7. Infotainmment System
  8. Skid-Plate
What parts and where would I get them.
Also, I just wanted a loud daily driver that can go zoom on the highway but also go through speed bumps and potholes without any scrapping.
 

nicodache

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I'd suggest, you get hold of the car first and drive it for a while, before spending money on mod you may not do once you drive it.

Also, other points worth considering;
1. rear windows and boot/trunk are tinted already. Check with your local regulation if it's legal to tint driver/passenger side windows and windshield.
3. unsure you'll find one you can easily assemble, and legally drive (some countries requires it to be engineered, other require a manufacturer proof of conformity/fit for purpose, other just blank refuse it).
6. all levorg come fitted with a rear camera already, and some of the newer ones also have front cam or 360 view
7. changing infotainment may disable some of the camera bits
 
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