Engine starts with high rpm, when floor the gas pedal no power at all until turbo kicks in at 2500ish rpm

[my4dmin]

As title says my 2014 levorg engine starts with high rpm (1500+ rpm like winter cold start but outside temp is above 20C), while driving when floor the gas pedal no power at all just revs up until turbo kicks in at 2500ish rpm. Anyone had similar problem before? any idea what is the cause?? local mechanic suggested to clean the EGR system, throttle body.

 

[robo498]

Any codes?

 

[my4dmin]

Any codes?

No code, no CEL.

 

[my4dmin]

UPDATE: I changed engine oil, filter, air filter. not much difference. Also performed throttle idle relearn thing. Used injector cleaner additive..
Still when I start the engine it revs around 1500rpm 2-3mins then lowers to 700ish. Temp outside is not below +18C.
Even it revs high at +33C hot day.
Planning to change spark plugs, clean throttle body.

 

[geeman]

I think it's normal that it idles high on initial start-up, mine does it aswell regardless of the ambient air temperature. Depends on engine temperature so if it hasn't been started or isn't warm it should idle high on initial start up then go down to 750rpm or so.
Unless I am misunderstanding your post!

 

[Guvna]

UPDATE: I changed engine oil, filter, air filter. not much difference. Also performed throttle idle relearn thing. Used injector cleaner additive..
Still when I start the engine it revs around 1500rpm 2-3mins then lowers to 700ish. Temp outside is not below +18C.
Even it revs high at +33C hot day.
Planning to change spark plugs, clean throttle body.

All this is normal cold start behaviour (cold engine not cold outside). However, the lack of power etc in your original post is not normal, is that still present, or resolved now?

 

[my4dmin]

I think it's normal that it idles high on initial start-up, mine does it aswell regardless of the ambient air temperature. Depends on engine temperature so if it hasn't been started or isn't warm it should idle high on initial start up then go down to 750rpm or so.
Unless I am misunderstanding your post!

All this is normal cold start behaviour (cold engine not cold outside). However, the lack of power etc in your original post is not normal, is that still present, or resolved now?

Yeah I know it is cold engine behavior, but still it even high rpm with engine oil temp is starting with plus 40-50C only above around 65C is seems ok.
And yes still lack of power, but it improved when oil changed and air filter changed.

 

[Guvna]

Yeah I know it is cold engine behavior, but still it even high rpm with engine oil temp is starting with plus 40-50C only above around 65C is seems ok.
And yes still lack of power, but it improved when oil changed and air filter changed.

Well then something is definitely still not right there then

 

[my4dmin]

I checked misfire with diagnostics scanner there is none.
Thought it could be vacuum leak but when engine oil temp goes above 60C idle is fine with this reason i think its not related to vacuum leak.
BTW faulty O2 sensor could make this kind of problem ?? O2 sensor shows lean when its high (1500) rpm idling, then when idle goes down i give slight throttle around 1400-1500rpm then it shows rich.

 

[my4dmin]

UPDATE:
Today cleaned PCV valve, MAP sensor, Throttle body.
Throttle body was not so bad, cleaned it with soak a rag in throttle body cleaner wiped, also spray throttle body cleaned wiped it off, no need to brush.

forgot to take photo of PCV valve, when I shake it it sound there is gunk with in it hehe, sprayd with same throttle body cleaner wiped off and it sounds clear ball like thing tingling inside.
MAP sensor was bit bad.

Sprayed, wiped off make it clean like a new. Disassemble, cleaning, assemble total work time was 2 hours, I was a bit struggle to take off the intercooler and put it back. Never worked with Subaru engines before it was a great experience.
Power loss or engine hesitation is almost gone, why almost is there is slight hesitation left and I am guessing I need to change spark plugs next.
Result was day and night. Before the highway gas mileage was 8km/liter (18.8mpg)at best and after cleaning I did ~50km test drive with moderate traffic and no traffic roads. And it shows 28.2-37mpg I was shocked. Lets see a few days also planning to change the spark plugs next.
Oh on cold start engine still revs around 1500rpms but lot less time. Oh also found tiny bit of oil leakage from right side head gasket so bought oil leak stopper put it in.
I am happy with result and my car too I guess hehe.

 

[Robsyuk]

Great servicing but I wouldn't have put leak stopper in it.

 

[Guvna]

I agree, those leak stopper products are nasty shit, they don't just clog the holes you want to clog, and are hard to get out.

 

[my4dmin]

Yeah agree with leak stopper, but already in hehe. Also it says 250ml leak stopper into a 6l engine oil. I put 2/3 into full oil engine(around 5litr.)
Car runs great, on highway it shows 37-39mpg. On cold there is a slightly misfire-like shake but when I check with the diagnostics tool it shows no misfire. Next thing to do is probably a very good spark plug, also check ignition coil.

 

[nicodache]

I guess I'll do the same - my car has been misbehaving somewhat on high load constant speed (I feel the car jerking forward/backward and see turbo pressure going from 0.3 to 0.4bar and back).

So far, I assumed it was knocking prevention regulation and/or sticking wastegate, but I guess cleaning the things doesn't hurt.

Got some video/guides to share here, so I have an easier time doing all of that ?

 

[my4dmin]

I guess I'll do the same - my car has been misbehaving somewhat on high load constant speed (I feel the car jerking forward/backward and see turbo pressure going from 0.3 to 0.4bar and back).

So far, I assumed it was knocking prevention regulation and/or sticking wastegate, but I guess cleaning the things doesn't hurt.

Got some video/guides to share here, so I have an easier time doing all of that ?

Sadly I don't made video or photos but no worries it wasn't that hard at all. All you need to do is take off the intercooler and you can access throttle body, pcv valve etc. MAP sensor is on top of intake manifold area holds with 10mm bolt.
First unscrew intercooler inlet and outlet hose clamp kind of thing, im not sure i think it was 8mm or flat head screw driver u can use. then unscrew intercooler holding 12mm bolts.1 on left side, on right side you can unscrew two 12mm bolt holds metal bracket that holding intercooler.
Most time consuming thing to me was dissemble intercooler. Better not unscrew rightside intercooler side holding bracket 12mm bolt (bracket other end will bolted in manifold area with two 12mm, unscrew them) I unscrew all of them later assembling them back was bit frustrating. Also aligning with them was bit a thing. Your plastic engine covers 1 side will be hold in there so misaligned that bracket will be pain kkk.
It was just my experience maybe it is easy to align I dont know how to properly do it kkk

 

[nicodache]

was keen on taking the engine cover off tonight, to see all the crap under I'd need to remove to be able to clean all of that schmutz.

Turns out the MAP is easily accessible.

So FWIW, here is my 147kkm MAP sensor.

It's been cleaned without much success with MAF cleaner and then my fingernail.
currently taking a noisy bath in an ultrasonic cleaner with dish soap at 55C°.

Will keep you posted on how expensive is a new MAP sensor once I kill mine xD

 

[robo498]

That looks nasty! I clean mine every service (6 months)

 

[nicodache]

ultrasonic cleaning worked great, car still running not as should be - I guess I'll dismantle throttle body and other stuff in two weeks, when I'm off tue/wed/thu.