Matt's Levorg (Photo Heavy!)

lerroy

Active Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
151
Location
Wanaka NZ
Vehicle(s)
VMG (A) Levorg
Interesting, what were the price/s on the HKS items? And where from?
I have a friend based in Japan, got them direct from HKS

They weren't too bad, I think was $1200 ish shipping was close to $300 though
 
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tom397

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Jun 1, 2024
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5
Location
NZ, Auckland
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2.0 Levorg 2015
Next up was the exhaust. I have early starts (4.30AM) and live in a relatively quiet neighbourhood so goal here was to have something that had a nice tone but didn't lower eyebrows.

I opted to try out an STi system since these OEM exhausts are a dime-a-dozen on Facebook marketplace here in NZ:



Of course, the rear STi tips would not fit under the factory bumper (and important to note here: they also don't extend out anywhere near as far as the single-tip Levorg one does).
Cue the "Quattlo Muffler Garnish" from Shining Speed Japan and a bit of work with the angle grinder and dremel:



Now, these garnishes are originally designed to go together with a "single to dual", sleeved exhaust tip conversion which is unfortunately discontinued and I was wanting to use the STi tips anyway for the extra sound, so end result meant that the tips sit a little inside the rear bumper since the OEM tips are non-adjustable.

I also scored a genuine STi Levorg rear diffuser so that went on at same time:



Back under we go with the angle grinder:



The chrome tips come off nicely, as they are only spot welded in a couple of places, leaving a metal sleeve which will later house a clamp-on style exhaust tip (4x) from AliExpress:





I took sound clips with a few variations of the exhaust :
- OEM Levorg midpipe / Levorg tailpipes (The levorg as we all know it, quiet)
- STi midpipe / Levorg tailpipes (Extremely mild increase in exhaust note, barely noticable)
- STi midpipe / STi tailpipes (Marginal increase in sound, however brings a very annoying "booming" drone from 1,200-1,500 RPM with the CVT transmission, purely because the pipes sit right under the rear bumper (EDIT: Confirmed after removing stock tip garnishes and replacing with longer ones above: 30/11/23)

I believe the drone is partly to do with the fact the tail pipes are currently 50-60mm short of where they should ideally be on the bumper.
But also the rear sound-deadening in the Levorg is awful. A trip to Jaycar saw me with some butyl, foam and mass loaded vinyl to help reduce some of this drone coming into the cabin. A work-in-progress pic:



This is currently where I've left things. The two side, flat panels just with butyl have helped TREMENDOUSLY. If you remove your rear trim and give these a tap (I have a video of mine) you will notice how these sound like the side of a tin shed. Why Subaru left these un-deadened is beyond me.

I will get back in soon and update this post with the foam added and finally the mass-loaded vinyl over top.
Of course, once the exhaust tips arrive from AliExpress and move the exit back another 50mm, this will also help.
Hey mate, I've found this STI under spoiler on FB Market place but pretty sure its a sedan one. Do you know if there was a difference from when you were finding yours?
 

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Supafly_NZ

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2023
Messages
39
Location
Northland, New Zealand
Vehicle(s)
2014 FA20 Levorg, 2008 600HP 6MT Impreza STi
Hey mate, I've found this STI under spoiler on FB Market place but pretty sure its a sedan one. Do you know if there was a difference from when you were finding yours?
I couldn't tell you sorry mate. I had a friend who had a written off Levorg come across their yard with some goodies so I had the privilege of getting first dibs on a few aero pieces.
 

Supafly_NZ

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2023
Messages
39
Location
Northland, New Zealand
Vehicle(s)
2014 FA20 Levorg, 2008 600HP 6MT Impreza STi
So I did the doors with deadener finally. I had some leftover butyl deadener from Jaycar but it was crazy expensive at $50 per 900 x 330 sheet. I had bought I think five sheets of the "Response" sound deadener. A front door took about three sheets so the whole car would take around 10 sheets given the rears are a bit smaller. Projected cost was over $500.

I then found a 4sqm roll of "Shogun" 2.7mm sound deadener on TradeMe for $70 and (what I can only imagine was a clerical error) $10 delivery.
(The roll weighed about 15kg and the other shipping options for same/ similar products were all around $70-100)

The Shogun roll finished my passenger door and did all of my two rear doors. I think a 4sqm roll would do all four doors pretty easily which is amazing for $80 total cost.

Wont reinvent the wheel with a DIY since it's already been well covered online but I'll add some helpful tips.

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I first laid sheets of butyl on the inner door skins and then flattened down with a deadener rolling tool. I tried not to go too overboard here , covered say 75% of the available space.

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I used a carpet protection film which is sticky on one side, to trace the doors and mark with a permanent marker, where the holes needed to be for door card pop-clips, cable tidy clips etc I then laid the film over the deadener to trace the shape and make the holes.

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It was then just a case of pulling cables etc through and widening a couple of holes. I had to do two sheets top and bottom due to the size of the door. They are stuck to each other with about 5cm overlap.

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Rear doors I didn't trace. I ended up using the door card as a template then slapping it on and referencing a before photo to mark the few cutouts. If I wasn't sure about where the hole was I just used the roller and eventually the shape of whatever was beneath would appear through and I could trace the hole or screw anchor. This saved heaps of time but I think was only really able to be done on the rears. Front cards were a bit more involved.

I am already noticing the difference after first drive. Doors now have a satisfying "thunk" when they close and sound less "plasticy" when you yank on either door handle.

I had previously tuned the EQ to get about as much as I could out of the speakers before they would start to rattle and distort, immediately I noticed I could turn the volume up another 4 clicks (26 to 30) before I was noticing some rattles. Even then I suspect if I could dampen those rattles there would still be some headroom to go higher but this is plenty for me.

Road noise I can now tell there are some weak spots left in the car, particularly around the wheel wells. Prior to the deadening it was a pretty wide spread of road noise throughout but now I can actually tell that the door areas are quieter than other areas in the car. More work to be done here.

I have ordered some of this acoustic foam with the intention to cover the inner wheel wells and door panels as shown. It's $5 per 800x25 sheet on AliExpress. I grabbed 10

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In a perfect world I would add a MLV layer for isolation. I may do this once I have scouted the rest of the car for areas to add deadener and added a foam layer.
 
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lerroy

Active Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
151
Location
Wanaka NZ
Vehicle(s)
VMG (A) Levorg
nice work, man one of my pet hates is the road noise. interested to see how you go with the foam layer on wheel wells
 

Supafly_NZ

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2023
Messages
39
Location
Northland, New Zealand
Vehicle(s)
2014 FA20 Levorg, 2008 600HP 6MT Impreza STi
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Boot and rear quarters deadened.

Photos are a bit deceptive as the larger sheets are tucked in and hidden behind the panels (damn having large hands for this job).

I used a lot of offcuts to patch any front panels that had a hollow effect to them when tapped.

Another road test confirms that the majority of sound is now clearly coming from the front of the car.
Once my foam arrives I'll tackle the front with deadener and foam then work my way backwards to retrofit the foam on doors and boot. I need to get a few more panel clips and I will also tape the clips to stop any potential rattles in the door cards once everything is out on for the final time.

I am tossing up the kicker component upgrade for the dash but ideally I'd like something similar that isn't ridiculously expensive. I would then do a simple 45W RMS speaker upgrade in the front only (leaving the rears).
 
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